Backpacking in Perth

Perth is one of the most isolated state capitals in the world. Located in the south west area region of the vast state of Western Australia, with 1.5 million residents, it contains around 70% of that state's population.

Understand

Perth is based around the Swan River on a flat coastal plain down from the Darling ranges. The many relatively uncrowded beaches along the Perth coastline also help define the lifestyle; Perth is laid-back, quiet and quite safe.

Orientation

The centre of the Perth metropolitan area is the Perth CBD located on the Swan River around 10 km inland. The CBD is the premier business and shopping centre, and together with the adjacent Northbridge, the entertainment centre as well.

The CBD is about 1 km North-South but 2 km East-West and is centred on the pedestrianised Forrest Place. In or adjacent to Forrest Place you will find the General Post Office (GPO - open Monday - Friday 9-5 and Saturday 9-12), the Tourist Information Centre, Perth Train Station and the Forrest Chase shopping centre including Myer Department store.

The main East-West streets are Wellington Street (northern boundary), Murray and Hay Streets (which become pedestrianised shopping malls in the centre), St Georges Terrace/Adelaide Terrace and Riverside Drive (which runs along the Swan River and forms the southern boundary of the CBD). The main northbound street is Barrack Street which runs along the eastern end of the central shopping district and the main southbound street is William Street to the west.

Climate

Positioned on the south west of the continent, the city experiences a mediterranean climate with wet (used to be wet anyway!!) , mild winters (June to August; daily maximums around 18C) and hot, dry summers (December to January; daily maximums around 30C). The best times to visit are during spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May).

Get in

By plane

Practically all scheduled flights arrive and depart from Perth Airport.

There are three terminals at Perth airport:

• Terminal 1 - Perth International Airport: International flights including Qantas flights QF1-QF399 operate from this terminal.
• Terminal 2 - Qantas Perth Domestic Airport: Qantas domestic flights QF400 and above, QantasLink (which services numerous regional centres in WA) and Jetstar operate from this terminal.
• Terminal 3 - Skywest and Virgin Blue Domestic terminal.

Terminals 2 and 3 are adjacent to each other, but Terminal 1 is eleven kilometres away by road (NOT walking distance). A shuttle service operates between terminals 1 and 2 to coincide with international flight arrivals. Qantas passengers may get complimentary transfer vouchers. For other passengers, the fare is $8.00. Perth Airport

The city and major hotels can be accessed by taxi or commercial shuttle bus from all terminals. Transperth buses serve the domestic terminals (Route 37, every 20 minutes, no Sunday night), but there is no public transport to the international terminal.

By boat

The sea port of Fremantle is irregularly visited by a number of cruise lines.

By rail

The Indian Pacific trans-continental railway runs from Perth to Sydney via Kalgoorlie, Adelaide and Broken Hill. It is not cheap but a 3 day journey to remember, especially if you're a train buff. The Indian Pacific leaves from and arrives at the East Perth terminal, which is not Perth's main train station. A transfer to the suburban service (Midland Line - East Perth Station, 1 zone fare) or taxi is required to get into the city centre from East Perth.

Train services (1 or 2 per day) are available to and from the regional cites of Kalgoorlie (departing from East Perth) and Bunbury(departing from the main station) - see Get Out section for more details.

By road

There is currently no regular scheduled coach service across the Nullarbor Plain between Perth and Adelaide. People wishing to travel by road may wish to consider one of the adventure oriented tours that include camping and sightseeing.

Greyhound Australia offers a daily coach service the length of the state from Darwin via Broome. At over 2 1/2 days this is not a trip to be taken lightly!

Driving a car from Perth and Adelaide is also an option and the road and accomodation infrastructure makes it achievable without too much stress. However, be warned that it is still a 2700 km drive and is considered a 'once in a lifetime' activity for locals.

Get around

By public transportation

Perth has a comprehensive and relatively inexpensive public transport network operated by Transperth. Information can be obtained from their website, by phoning 136212 (until 10 pm daily) or at information centres at Perth Train Station, Wellington Street Bus Station, Esplanade Busport and Plaza Arcade in the City Centre.

• Bus: All buses operating within the CBD area, including the CAT (Central Area Transit) buses, are free of charge. CAT buses run circle routes every 5 to 15 minutes, but depending on the traffic and the number of people getting on and off you might find it quicker to walk than jump on a CAT. Fremantle also operates a CAT service that runs every 10 minutes. Most buses are clean, modern and air-conditioned, although a number of older buses are still used. Outside the CBD buses run at various intervals and a timetable is a necessity - note also that late running can be a problem, and that most routes do not run on Sunday nights.

• Train: The rail network serves parts of the city. The four lines - Clarkson, Armadale, Midland and Fremantle run north, south, east and west from Perth Station. Trains run every 15 minutes on all lines Monday to Saturday during the day, dropping to half hourly at night. The last from the city is at midnight, except on Friday and Saturday nights when there are extra services at 1 am and 2 am. Tourists will find the Fremantle line particularly useful.

The new southern line to Mandurah will open in mid-2007.

• Ferry: There is a Transperth ferry across the Swan River which departs Barrack St Jetty and arrives near Perth Zoo. At $1.40c a ride, this is a fun way to see a bit of Swan River on the cheap.

Fares: The Transperth system is divided into 9 concentric zones, plus the "Free Transit Zone" for the CBD. Zone 2 extends as far as Fremantle and for most visitors a two zone ticket will suffice. Two main types of tickets are available: "single trip" tickets, which can be purchased from bus drivers or coin-operated ticket machines at train stations, and "SmartRider" tickets which are a pre-paid smart card which will automatically calculate your fare and deduct it from your account balance. SmartRiders are available from Transperth InfoCentres (at major train stations and bus ports) or from most Newsagents. You need to charge the card at machines at major stations, or can give the bus driver cash (notes only, no change) to charge your card up. When you get on board a service you 'tag on' at the fare gate or next to the driver and once you have completed your trip you 'tag off' and the correct fare will be deducted from your balance. Smartrider cards apply a 15% discount over cash fares.

More information on ticketing and bus/train routes can be found on Transperth's website - http://www.transperth.wa.gov.au

Taxi

Perth is serviced by a number of taxi companies that are generally efficient. You can wait up to 2 hours on Friday or Saturday nights. You may be able to try the Night Rider buses operated by Transperth in the Fremantle area, and a Northbridge (Perth) nightrider is also now in service.

By bicycle or on foot

Perth and Fremantle can be comfortably explored on foot or by bicycle as Perth has very well developed cycling infrastructure. Areas further out from the city are easier to access with a car. The Perth Bicycle Network is a network of cycling and walking facilities throughout the metropolitan area. This comprises:

• Principal Shared Paths are high standard shared paths running adjacent to passenger railway lines and freeways
• Local Bicycle Routes are a series of on-road routes (with some off-road shared path sections) that connect potential destinations, such as schools, shopping centres and parks
• Generic minor works projects include general improvements to the cycling environment in a local area, such as on-road bike lanes and sealed shoulders
• End of trip facilities include bicycle-parking hardware such as U-Rails, Cora bike racks and bike lockers. They can also include associated facilities, such as showers and change rooms

Cycle maps are available from most bike shops, and a Planners Map is also online. The Department for Planning and Infrastructure publishes free Travelsmart guides, showing routes for cycling, walking and public transport. Also published are brochures showing popular rides such as Ride around the Rivers, Ride along the Sunset Coast, Ride through the Hills, Ride from Armadale to Perth, Ride from the City to the Sea, Perth and Kings Park by Bike.

Particularly recommended is the ride along the north side of the Swan River between the City and Nedlands. Allow 60 minutes for a round trip, depending on wind!

Bicycles are allowed on board Transperth trains, except in peak directions during peak hour.

By car

Renting a car is recommended for visiting the surrounding areas. Perth has lovely uncongested roads out of peak times, and is well served by an excellent freeway system. "Peak hour" is 8-9.30am and 4-5.30pm on weekdays, when the main arterial roads serving the CBD are slow-moving.

The general speed limit within built-up areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise posted.

There are no toll roads in Western Australia.

Cars may be rented at the airport and elsewhere from major rental companies, or at smaller, less conveniently located, cheaper companies.

Note that traffic in Perth (as elsewhere in Australia) drives on the left. Some acclimatisation may be required for visitors from other countries.

See

• Kings Park is a large beautiful park full of native flora located in the middle of the city. The best views of Perth can be found here. Visit the modest but beautiful war memorial. (Bus 37 from St Georges Terrace. Also 39 on Sundays. Within Free Transit Zone)

• Fremantle, about 20km south-west of Perth CBD is the original port and still supports a major maritime industry. Although part of the continuous built up area that is "Perth," it is considered by most locals to be a different city. Small enough to walk around comfortably with attractions that include the Maritime Museum and the amazing weekend markets (open Friday, Saturday and Sunday). Popular with the locals as a place to go for a coffee and is even more laid back than Perth. Renting a moped is a great way to see all of what Fremantle has to offer. (Train, or several bus options. 2 zone fare).

• Hillarys Boat Harbour in Perth's northern suburbs is about thirty minutes from the centre of the city. Great food, drinks and beaches. A small water park, The Great Escape, will keep the kids entertained. The Aquarium of Western Australia (Aqwa) is located here as well. Aqwa features an underwater glass tunnel where you can get close up to sharks, stingrays and a huge variety of other marine species. There are also numerous souvenir shopping and eating opportunities. (Bus 456 meets all trains at Greenwood Station - Clarkson line during daylight hours on weekends during the warmer months. Contact Transperth for options at other times. 4 zone fare required.)

• Perth Mint is the nation's oldest operating mint and one of the oldest mints in the world still producing coins from its original premises. You can buy and sell gold, purchase jewellry and souvenirs, see the mint in operation, and watch molten gold being poured to create gold bars. (Walk from City Centre along Hay Street east)

• Perth Zoo has been open since 1898 and has an excellent reputation with both tourists and locals. The cost of entry can be found on the website, and free guided walking tours are offered at 11am and 1.30pm each day. Catch the ferry from Barrack Street jetty to Mends Street (South Perth) and walk to the zoo from there. There are lots of cafes in Mends Street. The ferry is operated by Transperth, and tickets are transferable between the ferry, buses and trains.

• Burswood Casino: for those who like to flutter. The adjacent theatre is the home of many large shows and Burswood Dome the location for major tennis events and 'arena'-style pop shows. (Train Thornlie Line, or numerous buses. 1 zone fare)

• Claisebrook Cove: A major urban redevelopment area on the Swan River at the fringe of the city centre. Spend a few hours wandering around the unusual modern architecture in bright colours or stop for a meal or coffee in one of the establishments in the area. Views of the city centre from the footbridge over the cove are particularly stunning at night. (Yellow Cat to Haig Park Circle stop, not nights, or train to Claisbrook - Midland, Armadale, Thorline lines, within Free Transit Zone)

• Swan Bells, a unique bell tower at the foot of Barrack Street. The bells are from the church of St Martin-in-the-Field in London, and were a gift from the City of London to the people of Perth.

• Mundaring Weir, a historic feature of the Perth landscape. The Weir was completed in 1903, and was designed by famous engineer C.Y. O'Connor (also responsible for the Fremantle Harbour). The weir is open for people to walk over and around, and the surrounds have picnic areas and BBQs. There is also a museum nearby which documents the history of the Weir and Pipeline project. The Mundaring Weir Hotel is also a historic location, and offers nice food, accomodation and often live (usually classical) music events - although staying there is a tad expensive. The weir is a relatively short drive from the Mundaring townsite, and a great way to take in the native bushland of the Perth Hills.

Do

• Take a walk along the river or on one of the many coastal beaches; try City Beach (bus 81/84/85 from Wellington Street, limited Sunday service, 1 zone fare), Cottesloe (Train, Fremantle railway line 2 zone fare, then walk 800 m), Scarborough (bus 400 or train to Glendalough, Clarkston line then buses 400/408, 2 zone fare).

• Swim - Perth boasts some of the country's best beaches, which are great for a swim in the warmer months. Sunscreen is essential and insect repellant may be useful in the evenings. As the beaches are on the open ocean it is strongly advised that you only 'swim between the flags' at patrolled beaches. Probably the easiest beach to get to by public transport is Scarborough beach, which can be reached by catching the Clarkson train line from Perth central station, getting off at Glendalough station, and catching the 400 Bus. Alternatively you can just catch the 400 from the Bus port (down the far end of the station), which is simpler, but takes a bit longer.

• Catch a flick at one of the many independent or European cinemas, including Paradiso in Northbridge, Astor in Mount Lawley, and Luna in Leederville or Frementle. There are a number of Bollywood, French, Italian or International film festivals throughout the year, and the opening night of movies often has fingerfood and drinks beforehand at no extra cost. Also check out the open air cinemas in summer, located in Kings Park, Luna Leederville, Mundaring, and The University of Western Australia.

• Dance Salsa. Like many large cities, Perth has a thriving salsa scene. Great places to visit are the Deen on Aberdeen street, Northbridge, which has a Salsa night on Thursdays, with a live Samba band downstairs, and a DJ playing Salsa, Merengue and Reggathon upstairs. The Ruby Room, in the Burswood Casino complex, has DJ's, live salsa music and performances on Thursday nights. The Mustang Bar in Northbridge has a salsa night on Tuesdays.

• Take a ferry from Barrack Street Jetty to South Perth. The ride is inexpensive ($1.40 return)and only takes 10 minutes. Once there stroll around and soak in the village like atmosphere and depending on time of the day linger for a snack or meal. The zoo is also with in walking distance of the ferry. On the way back admire the beautiful view of the Perth CBD.

• Get out for a day to Fremantle; great for a walk around without a specific goal in mind, some light shopping (Markets with food and knick-knacks are open on Fridays and Weekends), or when the plan is to finish with a coffee and cake.

• Fun park - Recommended if you have children and teenagers is Adventure World. Located in the outer suburb of Bibra Lake, this fun park features 5 waterslides, various rides for the adventurous (and some for the timid) and a special 'Kids Cove' for children. Picknicking is enouraged, or you can buy food on site (no alcohol). Access is easiest by car, or by bus 510 from Cockburn Central bus station or Fremantle Train Station (half-hourly weekdays, hourly Saturday, 2-hourly Sundays, zone 3 fare). Best of all, all the rides are included in Adventure World's entry fee.

• Go Wine Tasting - a popular afternoon out is a trip to the wine growing region of the Swan Valley. Although the wine is perhaps not as top notch as that produced further afield (e.g Margaret River), the Swan Valley has the advantage of being close to the city. A combined river cruise and organised tour is a pleasant way to visit the area, or if you have a 'designated driver' you can do it yourself. The easiest way is to drive out of the city along Lord Street, which becomes Guildford Road to Guildford (20 minutes) then follow the brown tourist information signs. For many people, the Swan Valley is synonymous with Houghtons Wines and the grounds of their Swan Valley winery is a popular location for a picnic. Visits to the Margaret River Chocolate Factory and Oggies Ice Cream (both on West Swan Road) are obligatory!

There are a lot of options if you have car, from the city just head to the coast, then head north or south.

Buy

Perth has many unique things to buy, including the world renowed Broome pearls, Perth Mint gold and Argyle diamonds.

Normal shopping hours in Perth are

• 9-5 Monday to Saturday
• Extended trading to 9 pm on Thursday in suburbs (including Fremantle) or Friday in the City Centre
• 12-6 Sunday in City Centre and Fremantle only

Smaller shops may open longer hours.

Some useful hints:

There is a Woolworths Supermarket in the city on Murray Street mall near Barrack Street. This is open 7 days and until 7 pm on Weeknights. It can get very busy around 5 pm.

A late-night pharmacy (chemist) is located on the corner of William Street and James Street in Northbridge (just north of the city centre)

King Street has some of the more expensive shops in Perth, including Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

Hay Street and Murray Street malls are the main shopping precinct of Perth. They have a number of chain music, clothing and department stores. The two are connected by a number of arcades, including Carrillion arcade, Plaza arcade and Picadilly arcade. These have a number of off-beat asian fashion stores, unique jewellery shops, and even a shop which specialises in gourmet teas. Basement level of Carrillion arcade has a large food court.

Northbridge is fast becoming the place to go for more alternative shopping. William Street, located on the opposite side of the Perth Train Station to the city malls, has a variety of independently owned businesses, mostly operated by the youth of Perth. Here you can find punk/goth/rockabilly fashion and footwear, graffiti art supplies, independent art galleries, anime/manga collectables and generally more unique stores. If you are bored of the same big clothing labels, you can find some really different, locally designed fashion, as well as some excellent vintage pieces.

Harbour Town located on Wellington Street in West Perth (Yellow Cat to Harbourtown or Train, Fremantle line to City West. Within Free Transit Zone)is good for a budget shopping spree, and contains primarily outlet stores.

Trendier suburbs such as Mount Lawley, Leederville and Subiaco have a number of offbeat designer fashion stores.

There are a number of shopping complexes located in the outer suburbs, such as in Morley, Carousel, Cannington, Midland, Joondalup, Booragoon, and Karrinyup. These have the usual department stores and chain stores.

Subiaco Markets operate on Friday, Saturday and Sunday and is located about 30 seconds walk from the Subiaco train station. A good place for cheap fruit and veg.

Eat

One of the drawbacks of Perth is the lack of late night dining. Very few places will serve food after 10pm at night, with the notable exception of some excellent out-of-the-way Asian eateries and the other cafes in Northbridge such as The Moon late nite cafe.

There are a lot of restaurants in Northbridge just across the railway line north of the CBD. Mainly Southern European (Greek, Italian etc) and Asian (especially Indonesian and Vietnamese) restaurants. The seafood restaurants are also recommended. Northbridge gets very busy Friday and Saturday night.

Fremantle is a good option for getting out. It's easy to get to by train and has enough restaurants, bars and coffee shops to keep you well fed and watered. South Tce has a coffee strip that is popular from the morning and on through the day; about the only place around Perth that's alive from dawn to... dawn.

On weekends, a local favourite is to visit the Fisherman's Wharf at Fremantle for fish and chips in one of the specialised eateries there. It can get very busy on Sundays in warm weather.

Subiaco is a couple of km from the city centre and easily reachable by train on the Fremantle line. Subiaco is a fun suburb with some great food and entertainment. Remember to pronounce it something like 'Soo-bee-AK-o' OR just 'SOO-bee', otherwise they'll know you're from out of town!

Claremont is a suburb on the same train line as Subiaco (or a close drive away) which has some good food too.

Mount Lawley and Highgate Centered around the Beaufort Street strip, this bohemian suburb includes some of Perth's edgier bars, restaurants, pubs, cafes and clothing shops. Mount Lawley and Highgate is the heart of Perth's gay and artistic communities. If you want to splurge, try the Must Wine Bar. Jacksons, is located on the southern end of the strip.

Some of Perth's better class restaurants are to be found in the Claisbrook Cove area of East Perth.

Other suburbs with good dining include:

• South Perth
• Victoria park
• Leederville
• Cottesloe

Some specific options include:

• Yú Restaurant, Burswood International Resort Casino (Burswood, Casino side), for reservations call (08) 9362 7551. Fine dining and check out the $3 million renovation.
• CBD. "Cafe at the Hyatt", a buffet restaurant at the Hyatt Regency. This is a fairly upmarket buffet, in a very very nice location. One of the more expensive restaurants in the Perth region. $40 (plus drinks)
• Blue Duck Cafe (on the coast). Has lovely sea views.
• C Restaurant Lounge, St Martins Tower Level 33/ 44 ( top of the AAPT building, or St Martin's Tower ), (08) 9220 8333. Has amazing views of the entire city including Kings Park. The food is good but you definitely go there for the scenery.
• King Street Cafe, 44 King St, (08) 9321 4476.
• CBD Restaurant & Bar 815 Hay St (bottom of the Rydges Hotel), (08) 9263 1859.
• Westende Belgian Beer Cafe, 347 Murray St, (08) 9321 4094.
• Perugino Restaurant, 77 Outram St, (08) 9321 5420.
• Il Principe Gran Caffè, 49 Colin St, (08) 9324 3747.
• Subiaco Hotel, 465 Hay St (Subiaco), (08) 9381 3069. Worth a visit.
• Witch's Cauldron, 89 Rokeby Rd (Subiaco), (08) 9381 2508. An institution; great steaks and sizzling prawns.
• Chutney Mary's Indian Restaurant, 67 Rokeby Rd (Subiaco), (08) 9381 2099. Arguably the best Indian food in town.
• Bellissimo Restaurant, Bay View Terrace (Claremont), (08) 9385 35883. Worth a shot for some good Italian.
• Pronto Restaurant, 16 Bay View Terrace (Claremont, opposite Bellissimo), (08) 9284 6090.
• Taka, 150 Barrack St (Perth, on Barrack and Wellington St, and in Shafto Lane between Barrack and Wellington), (08) 9221 4771. Extremely cheap Japanese food.
• Lava Stonegrill, 155 Walcott St (Mount Lawley), (08) 9328 6669.

There is a large Western Rock Lobster (known locally by its former name of crayfish) industry. Most of the crayfish is exported to the USA for vast sums of money. However, crayfish prices in Perth can be relatively cheap, especially during summer in a good season. Lots of restaurants serve crayfish, so give it a try without breaking the bank!

Drink

Coffee

Perth is home to a thriving, European-style cafe culture, influenced by the large amounts of Italian migrants. There are a number of stylish cafe's, including

The Moon Cafe located on William Street, in Northbridge. Open till late and hosting a jazz band every Thursday, it is a staple for university students, gays and coffee-house intellectuals. It has off beat interior design, an assortment of quirky lamps, retro lounges and board games Also serves great alcoholic beverages and a number of meals and snacks to share.

Kaio, Roe street, Northbridge. Cheap coffee and snacks, stylish surroundings and a collection of Lonely Planet guidebooks for the wannabe traveller. Has an upstairs section which looks over the Perth metropolis.

Cafe on Oxford 130 located on Oxford street, Leederville. Includes board games for hire, and a funky plastic outdoor setting.

Exomod home of the one litre milkshake and coffee. Located on Beauford street, Mt Lawley, has a stylish modern indoor setting and a range of sweets. Open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays. Free wifi!

Infusion Coffee If you're in the city and want something a little stronger than what Gloria Jeans or Starbucks have to offer, then Infusion Coffee in Plaza Arcade in the Perth CBD has a pretty good selection.

Non-drinkers who have an interest in Chinese bubble tea can grab a drink (and a spot of karaoke) at Utopia which is a trendy spot for the youngsters who come out to break the curfew. Easy Way is another up-and-coming popular bubble tea place a few doors down from Utopia.

Bars

Try the Brass Monkey on the corner of William and James St; a great comedy club on site and a good selection of beers and wines. Bar Open on William Street is a hot little club that can only be reached via alleyway. It's virtually hidden location means it's sleek clientele are clearly in the know, and it is perfect for those looking for a spot to chill and any cocktail you could dream up- it's sister club upstairs, Club 234, is equally as classy. Connections claims to be the oldest (gay) night club in Australia and possibly the world while The Court is a gay and lesbian hotel/bar/club (still open but under renovation).

Perth CBD boasts several bars, usually crowded after 5pm with those who have just finished a hard day at work. Belgian Beer Cafe Westende has an impressive selection of imported and local beers on tap, with specialised glassware to match. Alternatively, Sassellas tavern located on the third floor of Carillon Arcade has a balcony that overlooks Forest Chase, and if you're hungry they have a good selection of food that's ready in 10 mins. The steak sandwich is good value for around $13.

Fremantle has the usual array of pubs and clubs. Of special note are the Fly by Night Musicians Club and Kulcha (folk). The famous micro-brewery Little Creatures is also worth visiting for those wishing to experience a unique local brew and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. You can also enjoy a nice meal there, with Pizza being their main specialty.

Subiaco has an array of venues where you can have a drink and a dance, such as the Subi Hotel, Club Red Sea, Sapphire Bar and Llama Bar. "Subi" becomes really busy when events are held at Subiaco oval.

Drive Through Liquor Stores - not exactly a bar per se, but definitely a concept unique to Australia. These are usually open until quite late. It is considered polite to park your car outside and walk through if you are intending to browse and take your time.

Live Music

Perth is well known for its indie music scene at established venues such as Amplifier Bar, Rosemount, Fly By Night, Hyde Park Hotel, Mojos, and The Swan Basement. Visit YourGigs.com.au for upcoming gigs or Perth Indie Bands for a selection of good Perth bands.

Stay safe

The main danger that an overseas visitor to Perth faces is sunburn! Make sure you cover yourself with SPF 30+ sunscreen and a hat, and preferably a shirt, especially in the warmer months. An insect repellent such as 'Aeroguard' will be useful on summer evenings if you are outdoors.

Otherwise Perth is relatively safe. If you wish to pick a fight, then Northbridge late at night (e.g. at 2.00am when the pubs close) may provide you with opportunities, but generally speaking use your common sense and you will be fine (e.g. don't flash money around, stay in busy well-lit areas at night and avoid lone drunks).

Police are friendly and approachable, but response times can be lengthy particularly on Friday and Saturday nights.

There have been a small number of incidents at outer suburban railway stations in recent years. It is probably best for solo travellers to avoid places such as Carlisle, Queens Park and Kelmscott on the Armadale Line late at night (not that there is any real reason to be there in the first place)!

Transit guards normally travel on trains after peak hour. All train stations have a time to next train as well as an emergency button to call transit guards. Response times can be problematic. All stations have live monitored cameras and by pushing the emergency button the cameras on that train station are automatically brought up in the monitoring room. Note the locations of the "talk to driver" buttons next to the doors in all trains as they are not on all doors.

The bus network safety differs according to the route you take but problems with people sniffing paint or petrol on board buses is rapidly increasing. Do not look or stare at these people and it is best NOT to move away from them if you can. As you exit the bus go past the driver and simply say "sniffers", do not stop to talk to the driver and the driver will usually take them one or two more stop before removing them. Mirrabooka bus station should be avoided after peak times when there is only one security officer due to Aboriginal and African gang related activity.

Beggars, pickpockets and suchlike are almost unknown in Perth.

Hostels

• Central Caravan Park: 34 Central Avenue Ascot. tel 1300 760 060. fax (08) 9479 4434. email mailbox@perthcentral.com.au

Get out

The main operator of regional bus and rail services in south west Western Australia is the government run Transwa. The Australind train departs Perth Train Station at 9.30 am and 5.55 pm daily for Bunbury in the south west with various coach connections, and The Prospector departs from the Public Transport Centre (East Perth) at various time to the inland city of Kalgoorlie. Coaches also depart from the Public Transport centre to various locations around the state.

Margaret River is the home to some of the world's best wines. Good food and pristine beaches make the southwest region a favourite destination for tourists and locals alike. Is also nearby, if you consider, as many 'Sandgropers', or residents on Western Australia do, a three hour drive to be 'close'. It is an ideal location for a weekend get away.

• A tip: avoid driving to the south west at the start and end of major holidays (e.g. Australia Day, Boxing Day) as traffic swells to enormous proportions and what is normally a three hour drive can take up to 5 or even 6 hours!!

Coach services are available from Transwa or South West Coach Lines (enquire at their office in Esplanade Busport).

Take a cruise to Rottnest Island, hire a bike, and cycle around the secluded beaches spotting quokkas. Cruises start from the Barrack St Jetty in the centre of Perth or from Fremantle.

Nambung National Park is a (long) day trip from Perth. In the heart of the Nambung National Park is the Pinnacles Desert, where thousands of limestone pillars rise out of the yellow sand. Beautiful and recommended. As a bonus for the scientifically inclined, a nearby lake has stromatalites closely related to those found in rocks billions(!) of years old. Tour companies run coach tours to the park, otherwise you'll need to hire a car. For photography, the best times are at sunrise and sunset - it's best to drive up from Perth in the afternoon, check into accommodation at Cervantes, and visit the park for sunset. Next morning, get up really early, visit the park, then go back for breakfast and check-out.

The Darling Scarp , known locally as The Hills provides an opportunity for bush walks; especially recommended during the spring (September through November) when the wildflowers are in bloom. There's a chance you will see wild kangaroos but be warned that they often jump in front of cars, especially at dawn and dusk. A drive to the old towns of Toodyay and/or York makes for a nice day's outing, being about an hour's drive away. Toodyay is also accessible by train.

This page was last edited 5 August 2007. Based on work by David, Colin Jensen, Bo Cumbo, Tom Holland, Zed and Shane, Wikitravel user(s) Tensaibuta and Oceanpark, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others. Content is available under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 1.0.

Western Australia

Albany   Broome  Dunsborough  Esperance  Exmouth  Fremantle  Geraldton  Kalgoorlie  Perth  Western Australia